I took my last non stress test yesterday. Here's what it looks like from my view twice a week for the past two months (I'm watching Les Mis...a big step up from the usual boring game shows that are on while I'm there), plus two extra doctor appointments for other issues. It has been time consuming, with lots of service and babysitters from people we know. Apparently with my "advanced maternal age" of 35, I have had many issues come up like Strep B, gestational diabetes with insulin and the normal big baby issues. We are on the countdown now, with me scheduled to be induced monday morning at 5 am if things don't happen before then naturally. Thanks to all those who've called to check on me, watched the kids, brought us dinner and listened to my pregnancy saga this time around. Haleigh and I got our toes done by my friend, Jen to get me in the boy mood. They turned out so cute!
For a recent death in the family, my dad's twin, Uncle Greg came to town from California. It is always a treat for us to see relatives and we loved hearing all sorts of crazy stories about "the twins" while they both stayed here. Plus, the kids got to learn some terrible habits from grandpa. :)
Here we are learning for the first time about the phone app "Bro-stache" which moves with your mouth when you talk. My dad and I had just gotten new cell phones and were figuring them out and adding apps all weekend. Brostache didn't make it to my phone, unfortunately.
Here we are after picking up Grandpa at the airport introducing them to J'Dawgs hot dogs. Yum!
We have emerged from the "lone and dreary wilderness" of AZ to become Utah "farmers" as Haleigh has said.
For the past few months, we've cleared a bit of land and tried our hand at planting a spring and summer garden. It is HARD work. I can now understand a little bit about why people are so serious about vegetables around here.
Here's what we new Utahns have learned so far about gardening. Before I begin..I have to credit all our newly found knowledge to Liz Binks...our garden guru. She was so helpful!
First...the plot of land is very important. We chose a spot in our back yard that had previously been a playground area covered with bark and moved it all to other spots of the yard, windowwells, and landscaping. Then the ground had to be tilled with newly added compost dirt. I've previously posted about our pile of poop. Other facts we learned were adding all the necessary nutrients for this region and the timeline for preparing the soil:
Every March
100 sq feet = ¾ qut
of 16-16-8
¼
qt of ironite
then add 2 qts of sulfur (1 qt every year after)
Next after soil preparation is the planning for watering.
Watering Hints:
How you water is important.
Watering too frequently isn’t good because our water has salt in it and
this leaves a salty crust on the top of the soil. Plants don’t grow as well when the soil is
salty. When the leaves are too wet they
are susceptible to fungus diseases.
Cucumbers, melons and squash may get powdery and downy mildew and
probably die before the crop matures if you sprinkle the leaves regularly. If
you do sprinkle the leaves try to do it first think in the morning so the leaves
have a chance to dry quickly and use an impact sprinkler that puts the water
down softly and slowly without the run-off.
You can water using the furrow method. Put a diffuser on the end of your hose, put
it in the furrow and turn on the water so it slowly moves down the furrow and
soaks up the soil. Furrow irrigation is
conductive to deep, thorough watering.
Sprinkling usually only waters the top so the roots do not go down and
form a good root system.
If you eat the seed or the fruit of the plant, water deep
about once a month. This includes the
tomatoes, peppers, melons , cucumbers, squash, corn, and beans.
If you eat the roots or leaves of the plant, water them
deeply two times a week. This includes
the lettuce, cabbage, spinach, swiss chard, celery, cauliflower, beets,
carrots, and potatoes.
A drip line irrigation system can be used to water the
garden. This allows a small amount of
water to soak into the ground until it is all wet enough. Also a drip hose can be used to water the
plants.
With options like drip systems, irrigation, sprinkling, etc., we decided to irrigate this year with the use of furrows. We mapped out three zones for the garden area depending on frequency of watering and what should be planted there.
I've been listening to every person who knows anything about gardening and taking note of the little things they say about each type of vegetable, berry or fruit. I feel like they are almost characters in a story since they all have particular needs for planting, care and harvest. Here's what I've learned, where we put them, where to put them and recommended types of each plant.
Here is Zone 1...
SummerGarden
Warm season
Deep rooted
10 days – 2 weeks
10 – 15’ deep root zone
Tomatoes–3 per stake, if it flowers its good, too
much water makes a bush
-roma
-celebrity
Melons-need room to spread
Watermelon
cantaloupe
Squash
butternut squash
hubbard squash
banana squash
Asparagus-starts, takes about 3 years, 8-10 weeks
Fruit Trees
Peach- prune with open vase method
-Lemon
Elberta
-Red Haven
Nectarine – plant near peach trees to cross pollinate,
prune with open vase method
Pear
-Bartlett
Apple - prune with two different methods: modified central leaders which staggers or
central leader which swirls
-Jonagold
-Gala
Here is Zone 2...
SummerGarden
Immature Fruit
Once a week
5-8’ deep root zone
Beans-use seed
Corn - use see, plant one row at a time for succession
harvesting, 4-5 seeds on a hill a foot apart, need room to spread
Peppers
jalepenos
green peppers
banana peppers
Eggplant
Zucchini - keep on a mound and keep putting more on
top
Summer Squash
Cucumbers –don’t support bush
Yams
Peanuts
Rhubard
Pumpkins –keep on a mound
Onions –plant every four inches, white bulb under
ground, keep really moist
-walla walla
-red
Here is Zone 3...
Spring/Fall Garden
Leaf and Root
Cool Season
Shallow rooted
Twice a week
1-3’ deep root zone
Lettuce- use seed, gone by July, don’t pull out, thin it by
snipping the leaves off, when it sends up seeds it’s done
-loose leaf mixed
Celery
Spinach - use seed which are good for 1 year for
all varieties, when it sends up seeds it’s done
Swiss chard
Radish - use seed
Beets
Carrots –- use seed, pull the whole carrot, leave on carrot
every inch
-nantes
Turnips
Potatoes –cut two eyes and plant eyes up, mound
until they flower
Broccoli –use plants, break crown off, use spray
if theyget little green bugs, pull when they flower
Cauliflower –harvest in september
Cabbage
Peas –use twine 3 feet apart with 3 strings high and put 2
posts per row
-Oregon giant snowpeas
-Lincoln
shell peas
-sugar snap peas
Stawberries –
use plants,are perennial which means will return each year, and only produce well
after a few years,Junebearing –big
crop in June or Everbearing-continual smaller crop, plant every 1 foot, send out feelers, can pinch
off, replace after about 4 years, keep
really moist
-Albion Strawberries – everbearing
-Autumn bliss – everbearing
Raspberries – use starts, plant every
two feet
-canby thornless raspberry
So after learning and mapping it all out. We set off to buy the seeds, hoses, plants and supplies. There are many places to choose from for whatever the need is:
Good Places:
Laura Kays – Salem – berries, potatoes
Diamonds –
Springville – flowers and veggies and hanging plants (call in March/April-pick
up in May), go in May for tomatoes, peppers, onions
UtahState Extension Service – fruit tree pruning
guide
I especially liked seeing my friend Liz at one of the nurseries talking and gently stroking the leaves of the plants. :)
So we came back and started planting over the course of many days. One day my grandma and uncle came over to help us and offer advice. My uncle's advice for all plants was "Bury them, water them and wait till they grow." I told him that he didn't understand how many ways I can kill a plant. LOTS! I need more details that that!
Finally after the planting was done, we had to make things cute. Carter and I got to work on creating garden signs made from floor samples and paint sticks staple gunned together and painted pictures and words of where things were planted. I think they turned out very cute and all the kids now can talk about what is growing well or not.
(Sorry these pics are so small...I've had camera issues with my new phone)
And the final pics are in!
Here are our garden boxes which now hold herbs and berries.
And the back garden, zoned, irrigated in furrows with signs. We've taught the kids to weed and water only walk in the "tunnels" which are lined every week with the latest lawn clippings.
Here is zone 3.
Here is Zone 1 (with our tomato stakes Doug made)
and Zone 2
The issues we've been seeing are grasshoppers, weeds from the past and seeds that aren't coming up. I think about 50% of what we planted is still alive. I expected it all to live and thrive and Doug expected none of it to survive our learning curve, so I guess we are both right.
Reasons seed don’t come up
1 . soil gets too dry
2. packed soil or
hard crust
3. cold weather, slow
germinations, seeds rot
4. fungus diseases
such as “damping off” keeping the soil too wet will cause this
5. cut worms and
other insects
6. poor, old seed
And just to send you off with a little joy...I've included this lovely song with something that always brings a smile to my face...singing produce!